In the third part of removing the equipment, we present the procedures that are best (mostly almost necessary) to perform with specialized tools. We will deal with the removal of the chain, rear derailleur, crankshaft and drive axle. Let's take a look at the chain, as this is a nice opportunity to measure its wear. A special tool can be purchased to measure chain wear, but this can also be done quite well with a method that could be called the “12 inch rule”. So if you do not have a measuring tool, take a meter (or ruler) with inch dimensions, and place the beginning of the ruler in the middle of one of the connecting pins of the chain. If the chain is not worn, the 12 inch mark on the ruler should fall on or off. almost to the middle of one of the pins.

In the previous post, we have already successfully removed the front gearbox, and this time the last one is waiting for us. To do this, we must first remove the chain so that we can pull it past both wheels on the gearbox. Take the wrench for the chain, thread it through the appropriate position on the wrench, and with the screw on the wrench remove the selected connecting pin, which releases the chain.

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Using a chain wrench.Using a chain wrench.Now we can remove the rear derailleur. For the most part, we only need a Allen key to easily unscrew the screw.

aaa02Use the Allen key to remove the rear derailleur.Let's start with the crank. For many cranks, I first need to unscrew the two smaller (on each side) protective screws (sometimes it’s just plastic caps, but we point out that the system you have yourself may be different from the ones mentioned here), and then we need to use a special crank recorder. You may know him as an "apciger." Carefully screw the puller onto the thread, then unscrew the screw on the puller in the opposite direction, which releases the crankshaft from the drive shaft. Do the same on the other side.

aaa03Use a special recorder (apciger) to remove the crank.When we removed the front forks in the previous post, we were left with the dismantling of both bearing cups (where the bearing wreaths lie). You also get a special tool for this, but with a little luck, if the cups aren't too stuck in the frame, you can easily knock them out from the inside.

aaa04Bearing cup - the top and bottom need to be removed.aaa05

We still have the drive shaft with the drive bearing. In our case, we need a wrench with 20 teeth (shown in the picture), and unscrew it by turning the right side to the right. Let's be careful, because in many cases (at least for drive axles of this type) one side is plastic, which can mean that it breaks simply, as happened to us! Because we at Energy Mama admit our mistakes, we will only guide you through the "ideal situation" from here. Therefore, if there was no fracture, the drive shaft with bearings would be unscrewed (on both sides) and removed. We had to turn to a service center due to a fracture and a jammed screw, but at least we had more experience.

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The wrench for the drive shaft was attached to the ratchet. The wrench for the drive shaft was attached to the ratchet.Misfortune never rests! The plastic part broke so easily after almost half of it.Misfortune never rests! The plastic part broke so easily after almost half of it.Done! The drive part is outside and the frame is completely cleaned of all attachments.Done! The drive part is outside and the frame is completely cleaned of all attachments.So, the disassembly of the bike is over. The first and second part of the article on bicycle renovation can be found here: